Explore Toledo through the eyes of Saul Schwartz, an American traveler who discovers the best sights around the Spanish capital. Wondering what to see in and around Madrid? In this article, Saul finds out if Toledo is worth a full day of your itinerary and recommends a free walking tour to discover the hidden gems of this World Heritage Site.
By Saul Schwartz
Toledo is perhaps the most popular day trip from Madrid, and most visitors arrive at its beautiful train station. Built in 1919, Toledo Train Station reflects the city’s historic architecture. The central section is flanked by two side naves, one of which is adjacent to the clock tower. The interior has beautiful stained glass windows, horseshoe arches, and ornate doors.
From Toledo train station, it’s a mile-long walk to the city center, a steep road. The road is scenic and crosses the Tagus River, the same river we just saw in Lisbon, Portugal. We passed architecture dating back to the 16th century and earlier, including an arched bridge built in Roman times.
We chose Guru Walk for a free tour with our tour guide. The tour was called Discover the Historical Toledo and the tour guide was Alberto from Follow Me Toledo. The tour started at Plaza Zocodover, Toledo’s main square. We walked past the bronze statue of the Spanish writer Cervantes (author of Don Quixote) and entered the square through a large Moorish-style arch topped with a clock tower. The square has several fast food chains, but there was a very nice supermarket right next to the square where we bought food for dinner.
The tour focused on how three different religions came together in Toledo over different periods of time. Toledo is a special place, in part because of its Christian, Jewish and Muslim roots. We spent some time in front of the Toledo Cathedral and decided to explore the interior after our tour.
We particularly enjoyed learning about Toledo’s large Jewish population. Although the Jewish population is now small, the 14th century synagogue building has been converted into a museum. The Jewish Quarter is where Jews lived in the Middle Ages. We thought it was particularly interesting that the city installed blue and white tile markers in the pavement and on the old walls to mark the streets of the Jewish Quarter. The markers include a menorah and the word life written in Hebrew. At one of the entrances to the Jewish Quarter, there are street signs that say “Jewish Quarter” in English, Hebrew and Spanish.
The tour ended with a visit to the Casa Palacio Rincon, a 9th century mansion that has been converted into rental units but retains some of the charm of the old palace.
After our walking tour, we chose to visit the Roman Catholic Cathedral. Tickets are purchased from the ticket office near the cathedral and cost 10 euros per adult. The cathedral is located a short walk from Plaza Zocodover. The grand Gothic building is hard to miss!
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The construction of the church began in the 13th century and ended in the 15th century. The exterior is a wonderful example of French Gothic architecture. It is one of the most impressive cathedrals in Spain. The temple was built over an Islamic mosque. To the left of the main facade is a tower. During our walking tour, we learned that the tower houses a large bell that is not working due to a crack. The main facade has three large doors.
The massive interior features beautiful stained glass rose windows, along with ribbed domes and pointed arches. The artwork inside the church is impressive and includes several works by Spanish artist El Greco. We were also amazed by the colorful ceiling frescoes.
The high-speed train ride from Madrid’s Atocha station takes only about thirty minutes and costs 22 euros each way. The very comfortable high-speed train runs several times a day. We were unable to purchase tickets online in advance on Renfe using a credit card from the US. When we went to buy tickets at Atocha train station, our time options for that day were limited.
The large Atocha train station is under construction, making it difficult to navigate. To add to the confusion, there are several different Renfe ticket offices, but only one sells tickets for the high-speed trains. I recommend allowing extra time to find the right ticket office and arriving early in the day for more train options.
Saul lives in Alexandria, Virginia, and has lived in the Washington, D.C. area since 1984. He loves traveling throughout Europe with his wife and family, and especially enjoys interacting with the locals and learning about life in their city and country.
Saul has previously shared his thoughts on travel. Check out 4 Day Lisbon City Guide Or check out his trip to Modern Athens – Beyond the Acropolis Or his infatuation with Vatican: Rome of the Popes.
